Is your betta fish acting strange—scratching, not eating, or showing faded colors? These are often signs of internal or external parasites, and they can wreak havoc on your betta’s health if left untreated. For a long-term solution that prevents parasite problems naturally, download Aquaponics 4 You—the ultimate guide to setting up a balanced ecosystem that protects your betta and grows plants at the same time.
Common Betta Parasites and What to Watch For
Betta fish can suffer from both external and internal parasites. These invaders weaken the immune system, cause stress, and often lead to secondary infections. Catching the signs early is critical to a successful treatment.
External Parasites
- Ich (White Spot Disease): Caused by *Ichthyophthirius multifiliis*, presents as small white dots like grains of salt.
- Velvet: Caused by *Oodinium*, appears as a gold-dust coating, with scratching or rubbing behavior.
- Flukes: Microscopic flatworms that affect gills or skin, causing rapid gill movement, flashing, or clamped fins.
- Anchor Worms: Rare in bettas but visible as thread-like worms hanging from the skin.
Internal Parasites
- Nematodes (Roundworms): Cause bloating, weight loss, and stringy white feces.
- Hexamita: A protozoan responsible for hole-in-the-head disease and wasting symptoms.
- Trematodes: Flukes that may also affect internal organs.
Symptoms of Parasites in Betta Fish
Betta parasites often cause subtle changes at first, but worsen quickly if untreated. Watch for these signs:
- Scratching or rubbing against objects (flashing)
- Clamped fins, lethargy
- Loss of appetite
- Stringy, white, or translucent feces
- Gasping at the surface or rapid gill movement
- White spots, gold dust, or visible worms on the body
- Swollen belly with continued weight loss (for internal parasites)
How Bettas Get Parasites
Parasites enter your aquarium through several common vectors:
- New fish or invertebrates that weren’t quarantined
- Live food like bloodworms or daphnia, if not sourced safely
- Contaminated plants or equipment from another tank
Even healthy-looking fish can be carriers, which is why quarantine is critical when adding anything new to your betta tank.
Mid-Article CTA: Want a Natural Solution to Parasite Prevention?
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How to Treat Betta Parasites
Treatment depends on whether you’re dealing with internal or external parasites. Here’s how to tackle each type effectively.
External Parasite Treatment
Ich, Velvet, and Flukes respond well to the following protocol:
- Raise water temperature slowly to 82–84°F (for Ich)
- Use aquarium salt (1 tsp per gallon) to reduce osmotic stress
- Add antiparasitic meds like API Super Ick Cure, Seachem ParaGuard, or CopperSafe
- Turn off carbon filtration—it removes medication
- Treat for at least 7–10 days and complete full course
Internal Parasite Treatment
If your betta is eating, medicated food is the best route:
- Seachem Metroplex: Treats Hexamita and protozoans
- API General Cure: Contains metronidazole and praziquantel
- Focus + Garlic Guard: Binds meds to food and encourages eating
If the betta won’t eat, dose the water column in a hospital tank. Internal parasite treatment may require several cycles with water changes between each round.
Hospital Tank Setup
To treat your betta properly, move it to a hospital tank if possible:
- 2.5–5 gallon tank with heater and air stone
- Bare bottom for easy cleaning
- Daily water changes (25–50%)
- No plants or carbon filter during treatment
How Long Does Treatment Take?
| Parasite | Treatment Duration | Primary Medication |
|---|---|---|
| Ich | 7–10 days | Copper, ParaGuard, Ick-X |
| Velvet | 10–14 days | Copper, API General Cure |
| Gill Flukes | 7 days (may need repeat) | Praziquantel |
| Internal Worms | 3–4 doses over 10–14 days | Metroplex, Levamisole |
| Hexamita | 7–10 days | Metronidazole |
Preventing Parasites in the Future
1. Quarantine Everything New
- Quarantine all fish, plants, and invertebrates for 2–4 weeks
- Observe for signs of illness before adding to your main tank
2. Use Clean Sources for Food
- Buy live foods from reputable sources or use frozen options
- Rinse frozen food before feeding to reduce contaminants
3. Maintain Water Quality
- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrite: 0 ppm
- Nitrate: Under 20 ppm
- Weekly 25–30% water changes
4. Add Live Plants
- Plants help control ammonia and improve oxygen levels
- Java fern, Anubias, Hornwort, and Amazon Sword are betta-safe
5. Avoid Stress
- Keep temperature stable (78–80°F)
- Limit tank mates or avoid them entirely
- Provide hides and low-flow filtration
Common Myths About Betta Parasites
- “If the fish eats, it can’t have parasites.” False—many bettas continue eating early in an infestation.
- “Ich is just a cosmetic issue.” False—it can damage gills and kill if untreated.
- “Parasites only affect dirty tanks.” False—even clean tanks get parasites from new additions.
Final Thoughts
Betta parasites can be serious, but they’re treatable if caught early. The most effective strategy is prevention—through quarantine, clean water, proper feeding, and reducing stress. If your betta is flashing, refusing food, or acting unusual, act quickly with the right treatment plan.
Final CTA: Want a Betta Tank That Runs Naturally and Prevents Parasites?
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